Hit the local Ace. Came back with a 6-32 tap, a #36 drill bit, some 3/8″ 6-32 brass bolts, washers, a hobby-sized hacksaw (that Maddie’ll love), and a full propane tank.
Hacksawing the shaft of the rivet off, leaving just the finish head, is fairly straightforward, if time consuming. Once off, I grabbed the remaining shaft that would be drilled and tapped, with a Vise-Grips and headed to the drill press. The drill press is belted to its slowest speed (around 500 rpm), and the hole bored as close to center as possible. (Lesson learned: One of the two rivets was well-centered. The other, not so much. If I had filed the bed level instead of drilling on what the saw had left, I’d have had more control on the drilling.) Take care not to over-drill here – it’s easier to sneak up on the right depth than shoot it in one go. Too deep, and, well, you’ve got a hole in the whole thing. Bad.
After drilling, it’s time to tap. This is careful, slow work. You don’t want to cross thread the rivet, and the brass is easy to foul.
Once tapped, washers are installed, and the box mounted. The finished rivet has a small dimple now, caused by the very tight clearance forced by a shallow drilling depth and the pointy tip of the tap.
Wiped down and all hardware installed, the rear standard is done, and looking good.
What’s left? Stripping and refinishing the bed, pulling the tacks on the bellows frames, measuring for the bellows, and installing them when they come back from the master bellows maker…